The waves they’re a crashing in the distance
As a surfer sits for the first morning ride
Now comes the perfect transition
It’s time to catch this mountain of furry
This watery wall wildly building behind him
He paddles with arms full of adrenalin
He knows the drop is upon him
There’s no turning back at this point
Fear is a good thing to have
When you know what’s lurking below
The undertow will strait pull you under
Unforgiving if you slip into its grasp
But fear has to be push back for now
It’s time to stand
Drop
And hold on for life
Rushing down and cutting to the side
He seems to be gliding on air
Twisting and turning to cost through the pipeline
As his hand drags ever so lightly along this crystal like tube
Now he’s in his full moment of Zen
No bills, no traffic lights, no boss, no people
Just the perfect ride
Seeing light at the end of the tunnel
He cuts sharp to rip up to the top
To a slash of tailfins and power the peak of his incredible ride
The freedom of the wave
The freedom of feeling the flow
Published at Books On Blog Sep 17, 2011 From the Book of poems called : Don’t Get It Twisted
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